26/10 – Rome Reflections – finally.

I have a vague memory of writing that there was more Rome to come at some stage. Feels like centuries ago, but here we go. Let’s see if I can remember what Mr Nomad and myself were up to that weekend in May. Finally. 

The start of the city getaway was full on right away. During the first two hours in the Italian capital we managed to tick off one bottle of wine, pasta, cheese, ice cream and the must-see Fontana di Trevi. However, the first restaurant didn’t really live up to the high expectations we arrived with. The staff all seemed like they’d skipped their classes at the local high school for the day and had their first day at work that particular Friday. But the Carbonara went down ok, and so did the elderberry flower like wine – easy drinking and good for soothing the slightly dented culinary expectations. In other words, an ok start of the Italian experience. And the restaurants did get better, luckily. And better, and better, and better. Pasta, pizza, bread, wine, olives, more pasta, more wine, I can’t complain at all.

It was just one thing we didn’t manage to grasp when it came to food. Somehow, we were of the impression that the whole point with restaurants having a menu, was to communicate what they would have available for serving. I’m not sure all Italian restaurants would agree on that. Three out of twenty dishes or so was a common average of available courses when trying to order something. To compensate for this, it wasn’t uncommon that they would throw in an additional dish or two instead, preferably instead of the one you had just ordered and most of the times without telling you. But hey, when in Rome… And what’s the big deal really? Lasagna or spinach cannelloni? Scallops or veal? Red or white wine? You would hardly notice the difference, would you? Oh, ok…it would matter, scusi very much…

Except for eating and drinking, the main aims with the trip were to stay city chic all weekend (no GoreTex shoes or sporty rucksacks allowed) and to see all these things all the fuss is about. The old, big and presumably boring sites which you’re supposed to see when in Rome. And since we had decided to be proper tourists for once, we bought it all – the open bus tour, the boat tour, the guided tour, you name it. Only thing we didn’t fall for was the caricature portrait on Piazza Navona. Next time perhaps.

Normally, I’m very moderately impressed by city culture and anything related to historical sites. The yawning muscles start to twitch and my mind drifts away after a few minutes of attempting to show interest. But after the days in Rome, I’m suspecting that it’s all about size after all. I just need it to be big enough for my interest cells to switch on. Remember, we’re talking history and ruins here, nothing else.

The guided tour of Colosseum, Palatine Hill and Forum Romanum was worth every cent. Not only to skip the lines, but instead of seeing piles of bricks and enormous pillars, suspiciously looking to be made of foam and flown in for a Hollywood setting, we saw the banquet halls with the Romans’ gluttony and the private arena with lions for when Colosseum was too far away for entertainment.

The charismatic and bilingual David gave us about the level of historical details I could handle. With the British cynicism and accent from his mother and self-confidence, gestures and attitude from his Italian father, he took us through the endless ruins without loosing a second of my attention. Impressive. For the Romans 'forever' meant forever, not 'forever' as in 40 years like today. As said, impressive.

Of course, the city chic objective had its price, especially since I happen to be a woman. Some twelve kilometres in high-heels is not top of the pops really. Luckily, it’s not every day my poor feet get that challenge. But a weekend in Rome requires high-heels – no compromises possible. And as long as you stick to the quick stop at the Trastevere flat, to change to another pair of high-heels, before going out for aperitivos and dinner, you’ll be all right. It’s all about distributing the blisters and pain you see.

To finish off the Italian weekend on Monday morning, we stopped by a small deli to pick up some fresh juice and salami sandwiches. Then went across the street to sit on the stairs leading down to the arena of Circus Maximus to enjoy our breakfast. Again, an impressive site that made our minds drift away to imagine what it would have looked like thousands of years ago. When getting back to reality I didn’t see the horse carriages charging past though. The only running around going on at the circus was made by slightly overweight locals and their dogs. Time to go home. And time to put some flat shoes on.

More Rome photos here. 

23/8 – How hard can it be? #3 – Just wanted a notebook.

The May weekend in Rome was supposed to be about food, wine, photography and coffee. Not about iPods, smartphones, laptops, GPSs and all other sorts of gadgets. Except for the camera, the only device allowed to come along was my mobile. Not sure my faithful black w810i would be called a mobile really these days, but I’ll stick to it until it totally collapses or I’ve got infected by the iPhone bug like everyone else.

Thus, no laptop was packed for the trip and thus nowhere to make notes, like the draft for this blog entry for example, or the rest of the Rome story – which is still to come, I know. Didn’t have much stationary available at home either since the majority of my things were still packed away in moving boxes back in May. In other words, not much of handbag size to write on to bring along. No worries, I’ll just get a notebook at the airport to use during the weekend, easy as that…I thought.

First try, tax free shop – Not much of suitable size to write on in there and would be too hard to keep the flimsy perfume paper strips in the right order for a whole weekend. Could be an interesting concept for another trip though.

Second try, newspaper stand – Exclusive moleskin notebooks for half a fortune only, more suitable for the middle-aged businessman to match his briefcase and fancy pen, i.e. not for me.

Third try, toy store – “No, sorry, only colouring in books.” Hm…back-up plan perhaps.

Fourth try, book store – “A notebook? We’ll get more in next week, what size screen were you thinking of?” Ok, salesman working in a different reference system than me.

Started to get a bit frustrated by then, seemed like there was a whole airport without a simple A5 or smaller notepad to be found. At the second newspaper stand, I finally found one, which fulfilled my criteria. And there was only a single one left on the bottom shelf of the rack. Don’t know if that was because there are more people than me who still just like to use a pen and paper for making notes sometimes, or if the poor notepad had been sitting there since the 80’ies or so waiting for a blonde with an urge to use a pen again. Didn’t really matter at the time, because five minutes later I was waiting for the Rome weekend to take off with an enormous Caffe Latte and happy scribbling along on my new notepad. 

How hard can it be? #1

How hard can it be? #2

  

9/6 – Only in Italy.

It’s style, and a bit more style, topped off with some style. Slightly different to our Scandinavian officers of order on city bikes with nerdy bike helmets ruining any possible fancy hairdos. Or the ones in bright yellow vests and baseball caps on their heads, trying to keep a somewhat look of authority and coolness in their ergonomically correct boots.

More Rome to come…And photos...

Rome 2011

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

26/5 – How many pairs of high heels can you fit in 23 kg?

Got some packing issues here. How are you supposed to manage with one bag and 23 kg only for a whole weekend away? Could possibly have managed for other destinations in Europe, or for a few weeks of camping, but for Rome, a whole weekend, no way. Started on a packing list a few days ago and have now narrowed it down to the bare essentials:

• Dark, tight jeans for the journey, cool days and casual evenings.
• Almost worn out, black, wedge heel, semi high boots, probably the best footwear for the flight. 
• Black, rock star style leather jacket, which I was once fighting to get – still another story to come. Won’t ever check that one in, so part of travel set-up.
• Big, nice camera. When we’re not eating and drinking, we’ll be taking photos of ruins. 
• Undefinable coloured, and amazingly chic, Brazilian, open toe high heels, goes with anything but too much walking.
• Frame less sunnies, not as efficient as sunnies, but look pretty Italian...I think.
• Corkscrew, sure it is part of the flat we’re renting, but in case…
• Black, classic style high heels with closed toe, in case we end up at the Opera or something.
• Small lens for big camera.
• Pilot style, mirror glass sunnies, to go with the leather jacket and wedge boots.
• Second pair dark, tight jeans – can’t have too many.
• Favourite Canadian wedge heel sandals, so comfortable you can run in them, in case I get abstinence since my runners are banned from the trip.

Also banned, are all other sports and training equipment, GoreTex jacket, fleece, comfortable baggy jeans, GoreTex shoes, surf shorts, flip flops, big t-shirts, sneakers, cargo style 3/4 pants, caps and beanies and anything with rubber soles or made out of wool. Only comfortable item that can come along is the green dress, which is as nice to run around in like a pyjama, but doesn’t look comfy so no one will know.

• Little, black umbrella, which fits in a handbag. Mainly to cheat the system, since it will rain for sure if I don’t bring it, and be sunny if I drag it along everywhere. But also to make up for the banned Mountain Hardware jacket, if the Italian system doesn’t work like everywhere else in the world when you’re on holiday.
• Flat (only ones) brown leather ballerinas for the sore-feet-and-back-due-to-high-heels moments. A bit like admitting defeat before you even start…but hey, I’m not a high heel pro really.
• Back up corkscrew, in case the first one is lost, worn out or broken.
• Big lens for nice camera.
• Huge brownish 70ies style sunnies to match the ballerinas and Canadian wedges.
• Various chic tops, scarfs and belts, which normally never leave my drawers, to complete the travel wardrobe. Always amazes me that I actually own them.
• The little black one, to go with the closed toe high heels at that possible ballet or opera.
• Brown high, high heel sandals with straps all over, looks great with that green dress, but again, not made for walking.
• All earrings and make-up I own.
• Compeed – part of the looser kit together with the flat shoes.
• Brown handbag, since I couldn’t possibly use the black one with the brown sandals or ballerinas for example.

Anything missing? Sure I’ll manage without it, as long as I’ve got the hang-out-in-Rome survival kit above in order. For a while, I was also considering bringing the tripod, but doesn’t look very hip and chic to walk around with that…would make nice photos though. Might revisit that decision before I leave tomorrow morning. The ancient buildings probably deserve the best.

Almost ready for the Italian capital and a weekend of espresso, Sangiovese, gnocchi, Forum Romanum, gelato, aperitivos all afternoon in Trastevere, focaccia, Colloseum, Muscat, capricciosa, fusilli, caffe latte on piazzas, Pantheon and just eating, drinking and enjoying life in general. Perhaps it’s also time to beat the homemade Argentinean limoncello served at Rancho E'Cuero?  Will be hard, but not impossible.

Will finalize the preparations with learning some of the most important and useful Italian phrases on Google translate during the afternoon. For example: Vino rosso, per favore. - Amo il tuo fettuccini. - Hai bicipite bello. - Dove è l'opera? - Vino più bianco, per favore. - Quanto costano queste scarpe tacco alto? and Si guarda molto sexy.

I’m ready – Rome, here we come!